In June 2019, I completed the last 115 km of the Camino De Santiago, from Sarria to Santiago De Compostela. As the Camino stretches for almost 800 kilometres, this was only the start of my journey.
This blog documents my journeys on the Camino de Santiago, detailing my experiences of walking various routes since 2019. I’ll share insights about my pilgrimages, including the Caminos Frances and Portuguese, as well as other related trips.
The posts reflect on the physical and emotional aspects of my travels, cultural experiences, and passion for exploration, with plans for future long-distance adventures.
The Camino Portuguese [Coastal] can lull you into a false sense of security during the first two stages, from Porto to Esposende, which are possibly the least demanding of the 80 legs that I’ve completed since 2019.
Day 3 on the road, from Esposende to Viana Do Castelo, is a reminder that the Camino isn’t a stroll in the park, with a few climbs that are good preparation for when you cross the border to Galicia.
Of the three stretches I’ve completed this week, this was the most enjoyable, as it offered a variety of terrain, starting with a walk alongside the Cávado River, climbing up to some charming villages overlooking the ocean and back down to the lovely town of Viana Do Castelo.
There were some lovely paths, especially one section by a stream that included delightful mini waterfalls. The climb up to Igreja de Santiago de Castelo de Neiva may have been gruelling, but it was rewarded with a relaxing stop at the cafe next to the church, with stunning views of the path I’d just completed.
Unlike yesterday’s dearth of cafes, there were plenty during this stage, including a stall that I visited last year. As it seemed to be a temporary setup back then, it was a pleasant surprise to see that it was still there.
Pilgrims enter Viana Do Castelo across the very long Ponte Eiffel (yes, it was designed by that Eiffel) that straddles the Lima River, which is one of the main attractions of the town.
As I exited the bridge, it was time for a drink to celebrate the end of this short Camino and, spotting Taberna Do Brito, ordered a large beer.
Above the bar I noticed a scarf of the local football team, SC Vianense. The barman told me they played in the fourth tier of the Portuguese league and asked me which team I supported.
On hearing the name Shrewsbury Town, he correctly identified the three Loggerheads (he called them lions but that’s close enough) on the club crest.
So impressed was I with his knowledge of a minor English football team, I gave him a souvenir club pennant, which he said would be hung on the wall.
If that happens, it would be nice to think that, somewhere in a cafe in northern Portugal, there’ll always be a piece of Shrewsbury Town.
Total Steps: 34,074 Calories Burned: 3,512
Playlist Wherever I Lay My Hat – Scarlett Johansson [Side 1 only] HMS Fable – Shack
Finally, some updated figures… 1,640 [1,020] – Number of kilometres [miles] walked since I took my first step on the Camino on 7 June 2019, the distance between London and Warsaw. 77.5 [48] – total kilometres [miles] covered on this Camino, from Porto to Viana Do Castelo [coastal route],
Vila Do Conde to Esposende [22.8 km] Start time: 9 am
This was the shortest of my three stages this time. Rather than hug the coastline, I chose to dodge across to Caxinas to reduce the usual walking time by an hour. I completed this section in full last year so, with my back muscles, amongst others, playing up, I decided to take the short cut.
The day literally started with a change of plan, as the accommodation I had booked for tonight had cancelled at midnight the previous evening. Thanks to Booking.com, I found a place in an albergue, so this will be my only night in a dormitory.
Though this was only a 22.8 km stretch, once the trail moved away from the coast, it was a bit of a slog, especially as there was very little in the way of refreshment. No climbs though, which was a definite plus.
Esposende lies on the Cávado River and is a pleasant little town, with a nice public square and a few restaurants, though, this being Monday, some of them are closed.
The relatively local football team, FC Porto, are on the TV tonight, so I’ll try and find a cafe that’s showing the game.
This albergue is very friendly, and I’m currently the only person in the dormitory, so I got my favoured lower bunk. I’m sure this solitude will change during the evening. All I can hope is that the bed above me remains unoccupied.
Tomorrow is the last day of this short Camino, when I’ll be heading to Viana Do Castelo, a lovely town just up the coast.
Total Steps: 30,028 Calories Burned: 3,1982
Playlist Live at the Counter Eurovision ‘79 – Misty In Roots Melodies From Tales From Earthsea – Carlos Nuñe
I thought that I’d finished with the Camino for 2025 after a couple of days trekking over the Pyrenees in May.
But, like a drug habit that can’t be kicked, I returned for three days on the Camino Portuguese, repeating the stretch from Porto to Viana do Castelo that I’d completed in Aug 2024.
Ryanair flight FR9202 from Liverpool to Porto had been a good one, especially as I’d been randomly assigned an aisle seat in row 8, which was a bonus. On arriving at Porto Airport at 12:17 am, I was struck by the officer who was stamping my passport. Firstly, the name on the badge that he was wearing was decidedly un-Portuguese.
Then, I spotted a familiar flag and realised that he was Estonian, presumably some kind of European Union exchange programme. As much as I enjoyed my short time in Tallinn, I felt like his Portuguese counterpart was going to face some chilly days on the Baltic over the next few months.
I headed to Porto Cathedral for the credencial and got chatting to four Americans from San Diego who were part of a tour group that was heading out on Monday. Once I’d got my stamp from the cathedral, I walked over to the only Camino milestone in Porto for a photo and got chatting to a woman from south Germany who, like me, was starting the next day.
I called in at Ryan’s Irish Pub to take a look at some English Premier League football on TV. There was a group of middle-aged men from Nottingham, one of whom was wearing a Forest shirt, but I didn’t stick around, as I was feeling a bit tired after the early start to my day.
But before I returned to my accommodation, I had to have a francesinha, Porto’s famous [or should that be notorious] hearty dish of toasted meat and cheese, topped of with sliced cheese, an egg and gravy. It was as filling as expected, so I didn’t bother with a dessert.
I ordered half a bottle of Portuguese wine for €4.70, which was recommended by the waitress. It was quite a nice drop of red, though I did see a full bottle of the same plonk in a supermarket a few days later for €2.19, which would explain the price in the restaurant.
I left the next day at about 8:30 am. I had decided to take tram #1 from Porto to Passeig Alegre this time and, whilst waiting for the first service of the day at 9:13 am, I spotted a very understated branch of McDonald’s. I can never resist a McMuffin, so I was pleased that there was plenty of time for me to nab one before boarding the tram.
The 20-minute ride in the old-fashioned tram #1 that runs alongside the Douro River, the famous waterway named after one of the academic buildings that was part of Sunderland Polytechnic in the 1980s (or was it the other way round?] from Infante to Passeig Alegre was a trip down memory lane (if you’re about 20 years older than me, that is].
Walking by the ocean was as enjoyable as I remembered it from 12 months before, perfect weather for hiking, not too hot and no rain. The flat terrain made this 26-km stretch relatively easy though, as usual, a few Camino cobwebs got swept out and my feet were a bit sore in the evening. Nevertheless, I would be back on the road the next day.
Vila Do Conde was a nice enough town, but before I went exploring I found a pilgrims menu to replace the 3,769 calories that my Fitbit said I’d burned off that day.
Total Steps: 36,545
Playlist Low – David Bowie I never realised that the first track, ‘Speed Of Life’ is perfect for walking. Melodia – The Vines Nonsuch – XTC
Pamplona to Puente La Reina. 23.9 km 4.9 km Cizur Menor 11 km Zariquiegui [La Posada de Ardogi] 13.3 km Alto del Perdón [Peak of Forgiveness] Look out for the famous pilgrim sculpture 6.8 km Uterga 19.5 km Muruzábal [Los Nogales Bar / Restaurant] 21.3 km Obanos 23.9 km Puente La Reina [Pop: 2,805]
After a couple of nights in Pamplona, I was back on the Camino for one more stage, up to Alto del Perdón and down to Puente La Reina.
This was a pleasant climb up to Alto del Perdón though, unfortunately, there was no beer vendor in place, as there had been five years before. Of course, I took the usual selfie at the pilgrim sculpture that had been created by Vincent Galbete in 1996. It’s one of the defining symbols of the Camino.
I also made a point of looking at the Memorial Sierra del Perdón, a monument created by Peio Iraizoz in 2017, consisting of 19 stones that remembered 92 victims from 19 villages in the Sierra del Perdón, who were murdered at the hands of supporters of General Franco in 1936 and 1937 during the Spanish Civil War.
I pointed the memorial out to an Australian pilgrim, who was part of a group led by Paul Nolan, a fellow Aussie, who had a very relaxed approach to his group that was clearly popular amongst the middle-aged hikers he was guiding.
The descent was fairly uneventful and it wasn’t too long before I was heading into Puente La Reina. I was well in time for my bus to San Sebastián, so I found a bar and relaxed with a few beers. I got chatting to Derek from the Netherlands and Gary from Australia, though originally from Leeds.
The relatively short bus journey to San Sebastián marked the end of this short Camino, though I had a feeling that it wouldn’t be too long before I’d be back on the road.
The elements made up for yesterday’s non-appearance of bad weather with persistent rain from my departure at 8 am and throughout the four and a quarter hours it took to get to Roncesvalles, three km short of Burguete, where I had booked my accommodation. It was the most challenging weather I’d ever experienced on the Camino, so I just put my head down and got on with it.
Hostal Burguete was supposed to have welcomed Ernest Hemingway as a guest about a hundred years ago. Initially, I was asked to pay in cash, which I wasn’t expecting, and, as Burguete didn’t have an ATM, the thought of having to walk back to Roncesvalles to get cash was not a pleasant thought. Fortunately, the owner found a card machine, so I was able to make an online payment.
I guess the hotel must have been a bit more classy in Hemingway’s day, but I wasn’t going to complain at €42 for an en-suite room. After today’s ordeal, I checked the weather forecast for the next day and decided to bail out from the Camino for a couple of days and catch a bus to Pamplona in the morning.
I had walked the stage from Burguete five years previously and recalled that the descent into Zubiri could be quite dangerous in the rain, so I chose to give it a miss and return to the Camino for one more stage on Thursday.
I went in search of some food and found a small cafe that was very welcoming. I chatted with Bunny, an indigenous New Zealander from Hamilton, who was a lovely gentleman. He was staying at the same place as me and had also opted to catch the same bus as me the following day, though he’d be getting off at Zubiri.
My more immediate issue was lack of cash, as I heard that the bus driver probably wouldn’t access card payments. Thankfully, the cafe was able to give me cashback of €20, which turned out to be a life saver.
Total Steps: 34,034 Today’s Playlist OK Computer – Radiohead
This was my return to the Camino, retracing a section over the Pyrenees that I had completed in 2020. This stage is one of the most gruelling stretches on this Camino and it wasn’t much easier than five years ago, especially as I hadn’t done much training, and my lack of training showed in my struggle to climb the steep hills that had been so tough five years previously.
The weather couldn’t have been better; if anything, it was too hot. Walking in trainers due to my baggage being marooned in Amsterdam didn’t seem too much of a hindrance. Before leaving St Jean Pied de Port, I bought a walking pole from a shop across from the albergue for €10, as I’d been told by Air France that I could claim for essential items that were currently on their way from Amsterdam. Climbing one of the steepest sections of the Camino Frances without a prop to help me through the difficult stages would be unthinkable.
On arrival at Refuge Orisson, I quenched my thirst with two glasses of lemonade and eventually checked in. The beds had improved a lot since 2020, as they were now fitted with curtains and had plug sockets installed. They had also introduced a novel system for accessing upper bunks, which meant that the person in the lower bed wouldn’t be disturbed by someone climbing up a conventional ladder to get in bed.
The Albergue lies about halfway to the peak of this section of the Pyrenees mountain range and was much busier this time than it had been in mid-COVID-19, so it was a good chance to meet people from all over the world.
I made my way to the bar and got chatting to Luke and Jamie from West Virginia, as well as Greg, a Californian who had relocated to Vancouver. Later, we were joined by Natasha, a young woman from Sydney, Lehi from Jeju, South Korea and a couple of Americans from Minnesota.
Before dinner, I received good news about my delayed luggage, as it was confirmed that I’d get it by 7:30 pm, which was a relief and, as promised, it arrived on time.
Dinner was soup, grilled meat and chickpea sauce, followed by baked cheesecake, all of which were very good. After dinner, we all introduced ourselves and it turned out that I was the only person there who lived in the UK, though there were a few people from Ireland. Strangely, I don’t remember anyone there from Germany, which was unusual for the Camino.
Total Steps: 16,148 No playlist today, as focusing on tackling the steep climbs!!
I’ve flown on more than 150 flights since I took off from Heathrow Airport on a Lufthansa flight to Köln in February 1976 and I count myself lucky to have never had the misfortune to arrive at my destination separated from my luggage. The law of averages would suggest that it had to happen sometime and it would be my KLM flight from Manchester to Biarritz, via Amsterdam, when I first experienced this inconvenience.
There’s always a little tension as you wait for your bag to appear on the luggage carousel, and as the minutes ticked by as I waited for my rucksack to appear through the rubber flaps, I began to get concerned, as it is such a small airport, with few other flights apparently on the ground.
Eventually, I heard the dreaded sound of my name being announced by an airport official, who told me that my rucksack was still in Amsterdam and would be arriving at Biarritz Airport in 24 hours, and a quick check on the location tracker that was attached to the bag confirmed this news.
The official explained how to report the missing baggage and, with nothing to be gained by staying at the airport, I walked to the closest bus stop to catch the bus to Bayonne, where I had a ticket for the train to Saint-Jean-Pied-De-Port.
With an hour spare before leaving Bayonne, I came across a €2 shop that sorted out most of my immediate needs for that night and the following day, including a rudimentary rain cape, so I got three, just in case the price reflected the quality of the garment.
The last time I’d visited Bayonne had been five years ago, so I grabbed a quick beer at the Goyty Bar, the same place I’d visited in 2020, before getting some sandwiches from the Paul bakery over the road.
At Bayonne Station, I caught up with a Ukrainian woman living in Utrecht who’d travelled on the flight from Amsterdam with me. The evening train to Saint-Jean-PIed-De-Port is a charming journey through villages in the foothills of the Pyrenees and, while there were lots of pilgrims, the number of local passengers reminded you that some people are lucky enough to live in this area.
When the train arrived at Saint-Jean-Pied-De-Port, there were the usual selfies in front of the station name plate before heading to the Pilgrims Office before it closed at 8pm. The gentleman who gave me the credencial was very friendly and provided useful advice about crossing the Pyrenees.
When I checked into L’auberge du Pèlerin, just a few yards from the pilgrims office, I explained that my rucksack had been delayed in transit from Amsterdam to Biarritz. They were very helpful and found some rain gear in their lost property, as the weather forecast predicted rain for the next day. I shared a room with an Australian couple and a Taiwanese couple though, due to my late check-in, I ended up with an upper bunk.
My roommates from down under seemed to have overpacked and were determined to follow the Camino in what they perceived to be the authentic manner. My suggestion that they should book private rooms rather than pay for two beds in an albergue didn’t go down too well. Without fail, everyone who came into their orbit would be grilled about their name and country of residence for the journal that was going to travel with them to Santiago.
When I completed the Camino Portuguese last September, I was planning on taking a year off from walking the Camino in 2025 but, having had second thoughts, I’ve decided to revisit some of my favourite sections of the Camino Frances this year.
I’m going to start with the first major stage, from St Jean Pied De Port to Logroño, a hike that starts with the challenging climb over the Pyrenees. I completed this trail five years ago, so it’ll be good to return, though, as that was during the COVID-19 pandemic, I reckon it’ll be a bit busier this time.
Pamplona was a highlight that time, and I’ll be able to return to one of the best tapas restaurants I’ve visited, as well as the bar where Ernest Hemingway used to drink.
Other highlights will be Alto de Perdon, with its Camino-related sculptures, and Fuente Irache, where you can sample free wine on the way.
In early December, 2024, I spent a long weekend in Milan. It was my first trip to Italy’s second city and, while the main reason for my visit was another kind pilgrimage, to the Stadio Giuseppe Meazza or, as it’s known by most people, the San Siro.
As the future of this cathedral of football in its present state is uncertain, I was anxious to take in a game before it became more difficult to get tickets, should it be banished to history as the home of Internazionale [Inter] and AC Milan.
The game I attended was Inter vs Parma and I was fortunate to see the home side win 3-1 in a fairly routine victory.
Of course, Milan is famous for many more attractions than those connected with round ball games, so I made sure join a guided tour of the Duomo [cathedral], which included a walk on the roof of the building. It was an amazing experience, especially as the only other cathedral roof I’d ever visited was in Santiago de Compostela.
Earlier in the day, I visited the Convent of Santa Maria delle Grazie, where Leonardo Da Vinci’s mural, The Last Supper, has been housed for more than 500 years. As slots to visit the piece are in high demand, the only way I could see it was as part of a guided tour that included a workshop to discuss the work, once you’d had a chance to see the piece.
It was an optional ending to my Last Supper tour, but I thought it might be interesting to try it out and I’m pleased that I chose to do so.
A staff member talked us through the characters depicted in the painting, before the workshop ended with the six of us choosing to play the role of one of the disciples for a group photo. The daughter of one of the participants quickly put her hand up to volunteer to be Jesus and, when it came to my turn, having walked 1,500 km in his name, I had to opt for Saint James [the Greater rather than the Lesser, who also appears in the group].
This is one of many Camino Credentials I have completed over the past five and a half years. I try to get as many as possible – at least two a day – as, apart from providing a unique souvenir of your walk, it forms the basis for the Compostela that will be issued on one’s arrival in Santiago, where it will be scrutinised to verify your claim to have walked all the way from your starting point.
Steve Taylor's Camino De Santiago 